Beauty pageants are banning wigs and weaves to promote natural beauty

Beauty pageants in Ivory Coast are banning wigs and weaves to promote natural beauty. This change aims to showcase the true beauty of young women. While wigs and beauty contests are a big industry, they’re adapting to this new trend. #MissIvoryCoast #AfricanBeauty #Natural

Beauty pageants in Ivory Coast are introducing a groundbreaking shift by banning wigs, weaves, and hair extensions. This initiative is designed to promote natural beauty and allow the true essence of young women’s appearances to shine. Affecting competitions across 13 cities and extending to two international venues, this change seeks to redefine the standards of beauty by encouraging contestants to embrace their authentic hair. Whether their hair is naturally braided or straightened, the emphasis is on displaying their unaltered beauty, highlighting the unique characteristics of each participant.

This movement reflects a broader trend within the beauty industry, where there is a growing appreciation for diverse and natural aesthetics. The significance of the wig and beauty contest sectors in the economy cannot be understated, and their adaptation to this new trend indicates a cultural shift towards valuing authenticity over artificial enhancements.

Ivory Coast stands out as the sole African nation enforcing a prohibition on wigs in a national beauty competition. Mr. Yapobi mentioned that event organizers in the country have long advocated for embracing a more natural appearance, discouraging cosmetic surgery and frowning upon skin lightening.

“This year, we aimed to genuinely highlight the innate beauty of these young women,” he stated.

Additional modifications have been introduced, such as permitting slightly shorter participants—the minimum height requirement is now 1.67m (5.4ft)—raising the age limit by three years to 28, and significantly reducing the entry fee by over $30 (£25) to $50.

“This adjustment in criteria stemmed from noticing that these young women were investing substantial amounts of money to compete, which was becoming financially burdensome.”

When the BBC attended the initial preliminary event in Daloa, the principal city in the Haut-Sassandra region, one contestant was thrilled by the revised rules, feeling they offered her a better opportunity for success as she prefers not to use wigs.

“I observed other girls with long, artificial hair, and they appeared so stunning,” 21-year-old Emmanuella Dali, a real estate agent, told the BBC.

“This rule instills in me a greater sense of pride as a woman, as an African woman.”

In Daloa, a beauty pageant participant, clad in a bejeweled bikini and short skirt with traditional patterns, holding a fly-whisk, strides onto the runway. Behind her, banners in yellow display the Miss Cote d’Ivoire 2025 logo. The contestants in Daloa were the pioneers in testing the all-natural hair rule.

This initiative, aimed at celebrating authentic African beauty, has ignited a vibrant debate throughout the nation, where wigs and extensions are widely favored.

For many women, wigs and weaves are a fashion statement, offering creative versatility. They also serve as “protective styles,” minimizing daily hair manipulation that can lead to breakage.

This sentiment resonated with some contestants in Daloa, who felt the rule limited personal expression.

“I’m an enthusiast of wigs. I adore wigs,” stated contestant and makeup artist Astrid Menekou. The 24-year-old expressed her initial surprise at the no-wig, no-extensions rule to the BBC.

“I wasn’t expecting this rule! But now? I appreciate my hair, and that’s fine.”

The new guideline has prompted competitors to rethink beauty standards, altering some perceptions, like those of Laetitia Mouroufie.

“Last year, I wore extensions because I believed that’s what beauty entailed,” the 25-year-old student shared with the BBC.

“This year, I feel more confident in being myself.”

Ange Sea, wearing a black T-shirt adorned with a white-printed female cartoon character, adds extensions to a seated woman’s hair at a Daloa salon. The client peers into a mirror framed in wood. Ange Sea, a 30-year-old hairdresser in Daloa, is concerned the new rule could impact her business.

Should the competition’s influence extend beyond the realm of pageants, it could have significant economic ramifications.

Human hair wigs, which can last for years with proper care, range from approximately $200 to $4,000, while synthetic ones cost around $10 to $300.

Ivory Coast’s hair industry is valued at over $300 million annually, with wigs and weaves constituting a substantial portion of that market.

“This rule isn’t favorable for us,” Ange Sea told the BBC.

“Many women adore wigs. This will negatively affect our business, as we earn more from working with wigs and weaves.”

In her salon, glue is meticulously applied to attach wigs, creating a more natural look, and women spend hours getting weaves and extensions.

This illustrates the deep-rooted wig culture in West Africa, despite a growing natural hair movement among black women globally over the past decade.

Former beauty queens, donning short dresses and sashes, occupy a row in the audience during the Daloa beauty pageant.

Natural hair products have become more accessible, and natural hair influencers are abundant on social media worldwide, providing advice on managing and styling natural hair, which can be time-intensive.

In the past, wearing natural hair was deemed unprofessional, and it was rare to see black female TV stars or CEOs with natural hair.

According to Florence Edwige Nanga, a hair and scalp expert in Abidjan, this perception often persists in Ivory Coast.

“Turn on the TV here, and you’ll notice nearly every journalist sporting a wig,” the trichologist mentioned to the BBC.

“While these beauty enhancements are trendy, they can also lead to issues like alopecia or scalp infections,” she cautioned.

With the preliminary rounds underway, the debate continues over whether pageants should dictate beauty standards or if women should make these judgments themselves.

The outcome might be a greater acceptance of both styles in Ivory Coast, allowing women to alternate between natural hair and wigs and weaves.

Mr. Yapobi reported receiving “extraordinary” feedback regarding the new rules, indicating a significant impact.

“Everyone congratulates us. Everyone, even internationally. I receive emails and WhatsApp messages from all over praising us for wanting to reconnect with our roots.”

Emmanuella Dali, a contestant from Miss Haut-Sassandra, expressed pride despite not winning, stating, “This is who I am.”

He mentioned that no decision has been made regarding whether the wig ban will extend to the 15 finalists of Miss Ivory Coast 2025.

This grand event is scheduled to occur at a hotel in Abidjan at the end of June and will be televised nationally.

“If successful, we’ll continue and sustain this initiative in the years ahead,” Mr. Yapobi stated.

For Doria Koré, who was crowned Miss Haut-Sassandra, her victory holds even greater meaning: “Winning with natural hair showcases the true beauty of African women.”

Ms. Dali expressed that she walked away with something even more valuable—self-confidence: “I didn’t win, but I feel proud. This is who I am.”

By adopting this new standard, pageants are not only celebrating diversity but are also empowering women to take pride in their natural looks.

In a society where beauty standards have often been dictated by Western ideals, this move challenges those norms and celebrates African heritage. It encourages young women to feel confident and beautiful in their own skin. This initiative is resonating with a global audience, as seen in the popularity of hashtags like #MissIvoryCoast, #AfricanBeauty, and #Natural, which are gaining traction on social media platforms. This transformation is not just about aesthetics; it’s a powerful statement about identity and cultural pride, inspiring women everywhere to appreciate their natural beauty.

This reporting was done by the BBC’s Nicolas Negoce and Noel Ebrin Brou in Abidjan.